
Wall Finishes
| The natural plasters used on the building can be decorated with beach glass, as seen here. |
Fern Lane features many incredible natural wall finishes that are beautiful, functional, cost-effective and free of VOCs.
Kim Thompson created a variety of incredible natural wall finishes that are found on several walls throughout the building. These finishes are extremely cost-effective, chemical-free and bring a natural elegance to the building. Recipes for some of the finishes used are below.
Most walls are painted a variety of natural colors that enhance light from the windows and create a refreshing atmosphere. Some of our wall paints were manufactured in Fredericton, New Brunswick by Eco-House, while others are a home-made clay variety. The difference from conventional paints was incredible. Even after two weeks of constant painting, there were no odors in the building. The paint is a mineral based paint that absorbs into new drywall, rather than coating the surface like latex or oil based paints. Wood was finished with zero VOC Harmony paint from Sherwin Williams and paint for the bathrooms was purchased from Boomerang, a company that sells reconstituted latex paints that are mould resistant.
Recipes
Clay Paint (Alis)
Uses: Interior
Type: Thin layers of stabilized clay slip
Substrate: Plastered walls, drywall, other surfaces
Performance: Creates a wall surface that is much more pleasing than the rubberized surface of many modern paints
Step 1: Make a starch paste
- Add 1 part white flour to 2 parts cold water and set aside
- Boil 1 1/2 parts water. When boiling, add the above mixture of flour and cold water. Turn heat to low, continue to cook until the mixture thickens while continually stirring the bottom to prevent burning.
Step 2: Make the paint
- Dilute every 1 part starch paste with 2 parts water to make paste liquid enough to add other ingredients.
- Add colored clay or white kaolin clay with pigments to achieve a consistency that will spread easily with a brush, looks like it will cover in two coats and is the consistency of thick cream. Mica can be added to simulate clays that have naturally occurring mica. Fine screened, chopped straw can also be added. If adding either or both, add less clay because the mica and straw will thicken the mix.
Step 3: Application
Apply with a brush, and while the paint has set but is still moist, use a damp tile sponge to polish the surface, removing excess dust and revealing the straw and mica. A plastic lid with the edges cut off can also be used as a flexible scraper to further polish the surface.
Clay and Sand Plaster
Uses: Interior, or exterior when stabilized or coated in linseed oil
Type: Finish coat
Substrate: Earth plaster, or other materials if bonding glues such as starchor casein are added
Recipe: Proportions may vary depending on the type of clay used, but the objective is to get enough clay mixed in with the sand or straw to prevent cracking due to excessive shrinking. The amount of clay needed can be gauged by checking if the mixture will stick to a metal trowel held perpendicularly to the ground. If it does stick, do not add any more sand or straw to the plaster or it will lose plasticity.
1 part clay
2-3 parts sand
0-1/2 part straw
Apply with a trowel evenly on the wall and screen the excess off. Fill in low plaster areas with additional mix and use a wood or foam float in a gentle, circular motion until the plaster begins to compact. Let the plaster rest and when some of the moisture has been absorbed, use the metal trowel again to smooth it out.
Straw Clay Plaster
Uses: Sculpting, or as a thick, first plaster coat
Type: Base
Substrate: Bare bales, or smooth materials such as gyproc
Performance: Water resistant in mild climates and wears gradually; needs stabilization or protection for exterior
Recipe: proportions vary depending on the type of clay. High clay soils will typically require additional sand, which can range from 0-1/2 part sand per part of clay. Proportions of straw will vary from 4-5 parts.
Apply to a thickness of 1/2"- 1 1/2". When drier, it can be applied more thickly and used to fill out deeper areas.
Precaution: Too much water will make the mix misleading in terms of binding quality. Letting the mix sit for a day or more will improve it.
Alternative Joint Compound Mix
Uses: Interior
Type: Thin mix for sealing joints and covering nails before plastering or painting over
Substrate: Drywall, or other hard substrate
Performance: Will tolerate much more burnishing and polishing than straight clay
Recipe: 1 part clay, screened through 40 or 80 mesh, or obtained as fine powdered clay from a ceramic supplier
1/2 to 1 part chalk
1 part starch paste to 2 parts water
Mix the dry and wet ingredients to the consistency of a joint compound.
Lime Wash
Uses: Coloring and finishing
Type: thin layers with brush
Substrate: finishing walls, ceilings and even floors of animal shelters
Performance: mould-inhibiting
Recipe: Mix the powdered hydrated lime with water, and stir well until it has the consistency of thick cream. Allow to sit for as long as possible, from several hours to days.
Apply with a wide coarse brush by laying the paint on evenly without goingback over areas. Work vertically, let dry, and then work horizontally. If applied too thickly, it will peel or dust off. Leftover lime can be stored in plastic or glass containers for use at a later date.
Built Environment Committee
Phone: (902) 429-2202
Fax: (902) 405-3716
The Built Environment Committee meets the second Thursday of every month at 5:30pm at the EAC. All are welcome at our monthly meeting.



